MM6 Maison Margiela « Avant-Première » Spring Summer 2022 Collection

Publié le 21 juin 2021 par Pascal Iakovou @luxsure

The enforced condition of télétravail, or working from home, inspired the spontaneity of classics reimagined in 2D for the MM6 'Avant-Première' Spring - Summer 2022 collection. Underscoring the innate dynamism and resourcefulness of MM6, garments drawn by hand take on new forms when brought to life without second guessing, as direct interpretations from paper to cloth create unexpected results for a wardrobe imbued with multiplicity and a purposeful irreverence.

In an unlikely amalgamation of sketches produced by the MM6 studio team, the collection abandons the restrictions of silhouette to embrace the singular nuance of each garment. As such, styling takes a backseat to design: at times layering is inbuilt, and multifunctionality is implicit. The influence of tailoring abounds, fusing with the codes of deconstruction and trompe l'oeil intrinsic to MM6 to revisit a canon of casual archetypes from the bomber jacket and two-pieces suit to the cotton shirt and camisole.

The collection is photographed in cut-out white backdrops responding to classical architecture and complementing the questions of fit and form imbued in a doubled shirt dress with stacked sleeves, or a grey striped pant split open as a skirt. Flat-packed blazers feature permanent creases and relaxed spring suits can be worn single or double-breasted through a unique 3-button placement. Trousers play subtle games of distortion and proportion: a webbing clip belt is stitched into the waistband of straight black jeans, slim leather pants feature asymmetric paneling down each leg, and oversized blue jeans appear tied with shoelaces yet are constructed with a trim fitted waist. Rare graphic moments arrive as varsity signifiers emblazoned across faded knitwear and a shock of sun-bleached hair printed across shirt collars and tees, whilst an abstract view from the studio rooftops becomes an airy mohair dress.

The MM6 accessories collection pushes the boundaries of meta-fashion through an evolving dialogue of witty reproduction and the spirit of the 'readymade'. Stacked on a square-toe wedge, Mary Janes meet platform biker boots, and the signature cylindrical '6' stamp heel appears as a shrunken lady-like kitten heel. The folded form of the Japanese bag returns in pastel green twill and smooth monochrome leathers, joining the practical novelty of an upturned bottle bag in bright silver foil. The '6' stamp motif returns as debossed chevalier rings and button earrings, white-washed chandelier crystals become a cocktail ring cluster, and engagement rings and ID bracelets are framed in velvety jewellery box packaging as though plucked straight from the box.