The resonant relationship between duality, modernity and innovation continues to drive Nanushka for Fall/Winter 2021. Following the previous season's cerebral exploration of Surrealism, the Fall/Winter 2021 collection, titled Forced Perspectives, riffs on the Surrealists' archetypal cue of Optical Illusion. Symbolising evolution through duality, the timely collection is a discourse on fantasy and reality, considered naivety and creative optimism.
"Dali's installation at his Theatre-Museum in Girona, Spain, based around the Mae West Lips Sofa, was an initial point of inspiration - pieces of furniture cleverly positioned to create the impression of a face when viewed from a specific point" "I started thinking about how a person's features affect our opinions of them, and how wearing masks has made life feel quite anonymous. It led me to consider what we reveal and what we conceal in a new way" "Although imaginative, Forced Perspectives does not violate the assumption that clothes are objects designed primarily to be worn - and worn in real life. Form and function is always at the core of Nanushka".Sandra Sandor, Nanushka Creative Director.
Taking this idea and viewing it through a lens of process as well as design, for Fall/Winter 2021 each garment's purpose has been rigorously interrogated, while maintaining its core function. Dresses are reimagined through elegant draping, with slip-satin worked to create both liquidity and structure. Unique proportions and dimensions are achieved through bindings to create dynamic contours.
The principles of trompe-l'œil, a nod to things being not quite as they first appear, play out across Fall/ Winter 2021 in both fabric and silhouette. Working with regenerated and Vegan leather, outerwear is elevated through the use of responsible materials and innovative design. Again rethinking outerwear, satin subverts expectation with coats wholly reconstructed and collars, fastenings and pockets removed. The result is unexpectedly functional, as the pieces take on a sumptuous blanket-like form.
Craftsmanship and material innovation are key to Nanushka's vision of responsible luxury. In Forced Perspectives Sandor showcases her adept understanding of this, creating layers of design duality through considered applications of innovative materials and embellishment. Ceramic buttons and wooden beading add a craft-hand to pieces, re-routing traditional technique to create an intrinsic sense of modernity. Deceptive rhombus patterns are ingeniously arranged to house the brand's monogram; a dip-dye quilted effect is created through varying types of knit and texture - a direct connection to the trompe-l'œil narrative. Nanushka's Fall/Winter 2021 Menswear continues the surrealist composition, combining and juxtaposing unlikely elements. Unpredicted pops of colour and intriguing pattern details contrast tailored mens outerwear featuring both unexpected fringed hems and trailing sash details.
The push and pull of shrunken forms and easy laid-back silhouettes set the tone for a collection that centres on upending convention. Nanushka's Symbol logo-driven range is revitalised for the season featuring novelty print explored in a variety of design implementations.
Evolving the Nanushka accessories world, the addition of two-tone fabrications, an exaggeration of existing knot-detailing and boxier shapes feature across bags and leather goods. Celebrating a continuing collaboration with London based modern heirloom designer Alighieri, collarbone gracing, sculptural open chain necklaces and statement drop earrings complement monogram Nanushka headscarves, Buso- inspired headwear and detachable collars continue to subvert notions of the traditional.
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