Lumière! Musique! It's time for an adventurous little voyage into fashion land.
This season starts with the concept of a show within a show within a show within a show, fueled by a dash of time-travel to the sophistication and grandeur of early Hollywood. It's a mashup of Moschino-isms, stage-lit by a golden spotlight and dappled in escapist nostalgia.
The revered, ahead-of-its time 1939 George Cukor film The Women-in which no male character is seen or heard-influenced Scott. In particular, there is a Technicolor fashion show scene that struck a chord (here, too, this links to the meta observation of one vignette within another). The Women's plot kicks off at an expensive Manhattan salon, where society ladies go to get the newest nail color: Jungle Red!
Presented through a short film named for that same varnish hue, Fall hosts a panoply of items and ideas, ranging from reworked pinstripe suiting to an iconic-ironic prairie dress all-over printed with physical cows on the prairie. Scott also takes such mundanities as potato sacks and cuts them into bell-sleeves, poufs and bows, imbuing irreverence and confidence into something otherwise deemed largely ignorable.
The agricultural then gives way to a full-on fauna moment, with a high-shine power-suit made of faux gold croc, complete with a tail. There are strapless sequined giraffe dresses and beaded leopard frocks, and a show-stopping mini with an embellished flamingo, its neck itself becoming the garment's neckline.
From there, the trip continues: an outdoor series features full skirts, puff sleeves and a belted trench, along with an on-the-go kit holding everything you'd find on a lady's vanity table. Brushes for blush, hair combs, tweezers and even a compact shaped in Moschino's signature teddy bear, all included!
As we progress, the collection begins to boast ball gowns in voluminous silhouettes, appearing to be hand painted in post-Impressionist brushstrokes. At the conclusion, Scott enters the realm of 1940's evening, with pale pink, fuchsia, black and gold-charmed dresses that seem as if they're reincarnated off of a midcentury red carpet at Los Angeles's Biltmore Hotel.
Business attire? Check! Ladies of leisure? Check! A night at the opera? Check! Hollywood heroines? Check!
Remember, though, no matter the scenario, you should always consider one thing: wearing Jungle Red!
Creative Director: Jeremy Scott
Hair by Jimmy Paul
Make-up by Kabuki with product provided by
Nails by Yoko using the New Hollywood collection
Photographer: Marco Ovando
Videographer: Jeremy Eichenbaum
Casting: PGM