2 - MONCLER 1952
MEN'S COLLECTION - SERGIO ZAMBON
Sergio Zambon worked around ideas of layering and crossover for the collection, following his own inclination for the juxtaposition of seemingly distant elements into an all-inclusive, far-stretching mix.
Collaboration is the other keyword, as Zambon likes to involve external players, engaging in rich creative dialogues. This season such collaborations include Awake NY, the brand that captures the unique spirit and diversity of the Big Apple.
In a two-way exchange, the Moncler / Awake logos are simply yet boldly juxtaposed on jackets and trousers. Involved in a hand-to-hand collaboration, graphic designer Fergus Purcell offered an interpretation of motifs inspired by African wax prints, while Cape Town surf brand Mami Wata Surf provided mischievous patterns for t-shirts, sweatshirts and swimming shorts.
The spirit is energetic and youthful: according to Zambon, Moncler is an icon that is real and rooted in youth culture. The shapes are kept easy and straightforward, yet subtly tweaked and twisted. The offer encompasses trench-coats, light duvets, windbreakers, parkas, padded vests, jumpers, tees and trousers, in a palette of white, grey and black shot by bright dashes of green and electric blue and broken by imaginative prints. Ocelot spots add a wild twist to easy pieces such as jumpers and trench-coats. Crinkled nylon is used for summer travel jackets, kimono shapes sport hoods and Nbedele geometries adorn narrow scarves.
The outdoorsy feel is shot with hints of 90s rave culture: Zambon likes to keep the crossover as far stretching as possible. Printed duffel bags, colorful loafers and skater sneakers expand the all-inclusive spirit.
2 - MONCLER 1952
WOMEN'S COLLECTION - VERONICA LEONI
Veronica Leoni worked around an idea of an ultra-feminine, roguish wanderer for the collection. She interpreted the Moncler codes through multicultural connections of signs and traces taken from different cultures and mixed in unexpected, abstract ways.
The volume of kimonos and the wooden platforms of Japan meet African geometries as Giraffe prints are splashed onto sportswear shapes and Chinese silhouettes are reconfigured as utilitarian suits. Mischief-drenched tropical lightness is carried through Leoni's signature superimposition of forms, this season in weightless and transparent materials with an x-ray effect.
As a palette of neutral and sandy tones solidifies into deep notes of chocolate and is lit by touches of red and saffron to end in shades of blue and navy blue, the play of textures - matte and shiny, smooth and coarse mingled in endless permutations - adds another layer of stimulation.
Papery nylons, cotton duchesse, printed ripstop nylon, suede, ottoman and Moncler's own laqué nylon are cut into voluminous silhouettes that can be easily reconfigured by the wearer: pulling cords to get the volume closer to the body, undoing a zip to turn the parka into a cape. A cotton duchess field jacket matches the trousers.
The trench-coat is lightly padded. Blousons have puff sleeves and the padded vest is elongated and made in suede. Parkas have kimono shapes. Ribbed knits are worn underneath, sometimes opened by elbow slashes that allow further reconfigurations. Multi-brim hats, twisted totes, huge backpacks and wooden platforms highlight the wandering feel.