Yuima Nakazato – Couture SS20

Tales of the legendary phoenix have persisted across diverse cultural traditions since ancient times.

The depiction of the phoenix in the works of Osamu Tezuka, flying through space and time, speaks to both the strength and folly of humanity and calls us to contemplate the preciousness of life.

On a personal level, the tales of this legendary bird have influenced my perspective on the contemporary meaning of beauty.

Biosmocking Evolved

YUIMA NAKAZATO has always aspired to create tailor-made garments that harmonize with the individuality of each wearer. To accomplish this objective, our designs are based around our proprietary "Unit System", a modular approach inspired by our observations of natural crystal and molecular structures.

First announced during the A/W 2019 season, BIOSMOCKING represents a significant evolution of our Unit System technology, and its application in this season's collection represents a major step forward for our vision.

Through our collaboration with Spiber, YUIMA NAKAZATO has developed a textile-modelling method for creating three-dimensional textures. This process-Biosmocking™- works by precisely controlling the supercontraction property of specially-tailored Brewed Protein™ textiles, and makes it possible to bring an entirely new sense of three-dimensionality to our garments.

Experimentation with numerous prototypes and production processes has resulted in significant improvements to shrinkage control, resulting in the ability to create three-dimensional textures as well as modify the shape of the material itself .

Each of the rectangles printed on the garments' fabric has a different purpose-some are designed to hug the body, while others are intended to hang freely. Utilizing the latest iteration of Biosmocking in this manner allows us to design reactive garments that incorporate limitless variation.

The application of Biosmocking allows us to offer highly personalized pieces which envelop the body without being cut or sewn, and which offer endless potential for customization in terms of sizing and design.

The Japanese kimono and Western clothing traditions arise from two different approaches to the body. Made from rectangular patterns, the kimono is not designed to fit any one body in particular but rather has the potential to accommodate a wide variety of body shapes and types. In comparison, Western dresses are cut and sewn using curved patterns and are tailored to fit the shape of the human body. The kimono requires a styling technique called kitsuke to fit it to the wearer, while Western dresses are created from the outset to fit the wearer's body. For this collection, we have utilized rectangular patterns designed to fit the human body, representing a fusion of the two clothing traditions.

The designs for this collection were inspired by the beautiful changes we witnessed as the material shifted and transformed before our eyes during early experimentation with Biosmocking development. We imagine that this experience in some way mirrors that of our ancestors as they went through numerous trials and errors learning to master the use of fire.

As a whole, this collection is the result of a unique attempt to blend old and new technologies-to fuse primitive fashion techniques with the latest in biotechnology and digital fabrication.

SUSTAINABILITY

Sustainable development was a primary concern during the creation of this collection. Some of the initiatives taken to achieve this goal include the use of Spiber's sustainability-oriented Brewed Protein™ materials, the implementation of waste-minimizing production methods, and the upcycling of scrap materials.

Featuring recycled silk, this original blended textile showcases the radiant color and shine of Brewed Protein™ filament yarn.

Traditional dress patterns employ curved lines to fit the shape of the human body, an approach which inevitably produces excess waste cloth when cutting material from rectangular bolts of fabric. The latest version of Biosmocking technology changes the shape of the fabric itself, which enables us minimize waste by utilizing rectangular fabric as-is.

Jewelry featured in the collection was created from glass bottles upcycled by cut glass craftsmen.

Environmentally-friendly jewelry made by combining original Brewed Protein™ resin beads with rock paint and brass.

Customizable, Environmentally-Conscious Boots

These all-natural boots feature hand-crafted wooden soles and Brewed Protein™ textiles sewn with recycled silk yarn.

The boots can also be customized with knitted accessories, and their height can be adjusted to suit the tastes and styles of the individual wearer.

Some of the dresses featured in this collection are created from recycled silk yarn and Brewed Protein™ yarn, blended together into pieces called "unit parts" and joined with proprietary studded clasps. As each of these parts can be replaced in a matter of seconds, the wearer can easily change the design of the dress or replace single damaged parts without disposing of the entire garment, resulting in a garment that can last for multiple generations.

Free from the traditional constraints posed by needle and thread, YUIMA NAKAZATO's proprietary TYPE-1 clothing production system is instantly customizable, easily repairable, and flexible enough for users to switch materials and sizes to adapt to changes in body shape.

http://www.yuimanakazato.com/cosmos/