Ralph&Russo Collection Automne-Hiver 2015/2016 : le charme suave version britannique

Un nouveau conte, un conte qui se déroule en hiver, dans un temps ou l’opulence des bijoux et des broderies venaient habiller les femmes, et témoignait de leur statut. Un charme venu d’un empire, un empire slave, où à la nuit tombée, les longues capes de soie, de visons,  pleines des fines broderies, et les manteaux ornementés des fines pierres et perles, dévoilaient des robes de dentelles, légères, florales : romantique en soit. Un romantisme nuancé d’une séduction calculée, ou les transparences dévoilent avec pudeur les corps.

Des ponpons de visons, des volumes audacieux, de robes aux broderies remarquables, des longues capes , et des manteaux entièrement rebrodés, offrent un spectacle théâtral. Une fois la pièce finie,  réveillé de ce rêve, il ne reste plus qu’a saisir ces robes -longues à la tailles marquée ou plus courtes au dessus du genou – et prouver que les ornements s’adaptent tout à fait à la réalité, et sont les meilleurs alliés des femmes qui croient encore au raffinement onirique, et ne veulent pas se confondre dans le tourbillon du quotidien. Un peu de dramaturgie ne fait de mal à personne. Gwyneth Paltrow adore déjà, alors si la reine Gwyneth l’a dit, il ne nous reste plus qu’a se laisser porter par l’air romantique Ralph&Russo

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 10: A model walks the runway during the Ralph & Russo show as part of Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 at Pavillon Cambon Capucines on July 10, 2014 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

La jeune maison londonienne prouve une fois de plus sa maîtrise des techniques, par un savoir-faire qui rend hommage aux petites mains. Les broderies révèlent des cristaux et des douces perles : un temps de confection que l’on n’ose calculer..  .La patience est un luxe, le résultat en vaut le détour.

Couple vainqueur,  Tamara Ralph (directrice artistique) et Michael Russo (CEO) semblent avoir trouvé un équilibre d’exception qui offre des collections redonnant à la couture ses lettres de noblesses, tout en ne tombant pas dans la facilité des classiques. La modernité insufflée se démarque dans les volumes  ou encore les jeux graphiques.

Convoquant dans ses inspirations des grands noms tels que Fabergé -qui influence le volume et les broderies des manteaux, ou encore la maison Lesage pour son travail sur les volumes qu’embrassent les broderies florales- la maison témoigne d’une connaissances aigue des maîtres du luxe, et les redorent dans une version plus contemporaine.

Une femme qui sait que les belles tenues ne tiennent pas de l’ accessoire, mais d’un devoirs. Un respect envers son prestige. Un respect envers sois-même.