Il est toujours intéressant de lire les commentaires circonstanciés qu'on peut lire ici ou là, quand ils ont la densité naturelle qui nous semble légitime :-)
Avec sa permission, je reproduis donc ici les notes de dégustation d'un groupe dannois qui a tasté de grands bordeaux 1982.
C'est en anglais, c'est aussi sur le site Parker/Squires et on peut rapprocher ces notes de vins qui ont 30 ans des notes du GJE qui les a dégustés en 2001 à Las Vegas.
Merci Bjorke !
Copenhagen Tasting Group does Bordeaux 1982 - 30 years anniversary!
© Bjørke Kierkegaard
Lunch seating.
Flight 1:
1982, Chateau Beychevelle, St. Julien, Bordeaux, France.
Dark garnet color with an amber hue. The nose is sweet and expressive with notes of black currant fruit, green peppers, Danish pastry, brown sugar, chocolates, mints, minerals and toasty oak. The taste is sweet and medium bodied with low acidity levels. Very pleasant and smooth aftertaste. Fully mature and great drinking over the next five to ten years. 94 points.
1982, Chateau Calon-Segur, St. Estephé, Bordeaux, France.
Dark ruby color with a beautiful amber rim. Quite masculine on the nose with notes of black currants, earth, wet top soil, tobacco leaves, minerals, cederwood and toasty oak. Medium bodied, good fruitiness, nice texture and balance with some marked tannins on the back palate. Very classic mature Calon! Fully mature - and here it will remain for several years. 93 points.
1982, Chateau Cos d'Estournel, St. Estephé, Bordeaux, France.
Dark ruby/garnet color, significant amber/brown at the rim. The nose comes off a bit dusty and damp cellar-like. Notes of red currants, prunes, raisins, old furniture and shoe polish. Toast. Medium to full bodied, the acidity levels are high, but it lacks fruitiness and charm. It has just simply lost some of its breath. I have had several bottles like this. IMO it is fully mature and has hit the peak. Drink up. 91 points
1982, Chateau Grand-Puy-Lascoste, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France.
Dark garnet color, significant amber at the rim. Classic Paulliac nose, mature black currant fruit intermixed with wet gravel, tomato plants, pencil shavings and toast. Medium to full bodied, sweet tannins and nicely balanced. 94 points.
Flight 2:
1982, Chateau Gruaud Larose, St. Julien, Bordeaux, France.
Very dark purple color, only little signs of age. The nose is quite expressive with notes of dark fruit, dark cherries, gun powder and burned matches. As the wine sits in the glass more masculine notes emerges, grilled meat, spicy vegetables, crushed rocks, iodine and gaze. The taste is massive, great density, powerful. Some unpolished tannins. I have had this wine many times - a normally I rate it 2-3 points higher. This bottle lacked a little charm and focus compared to prevoius bottles. 93 points.
1982, Chateau Leoville Poyferre, St. Julien, Bordeaux, France.
Beautiful dark garnet color with some amber at the rim. The nose is lovely and sweet, dark cherries, strawberry fields, plums, crème de cassis, wild herbs, wet underbrush and toasty oak. Floral notes as well, viols. Medium to full bodied, great intensity, depth and purity. Quite surprisingly it has some quite strong tannins - but plenty of fruit to back it up. A great wine! 95 points.
1982, Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St. Julien, Bordeaux, France.
Dark purple color, no signs of age at all. The massive and powerful nose boasts with loads of dark currant fruit, crème de cassis, kirsch, garden house, Asian spices, wet top soil, tobacco, tomato plants and dairy products. Notes of toast and matchbox as well. The taste is extremely concentrated, strong, viscous, fat and dense. Almost port-like. Perfectly balanced, great depth and purity, very expressive and totally seductive. Young and lively in terms of development, it will easily last for 20 years or more. 97 points.
1982, Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, St. Julien, Bordeaux, France.
Dark garnet color with some amber at the rim. The nose is just lovely, very delicate with nice aromas of mature black currants, blueberries, dark chocolates, mints, womens perfume, white flowers and toasted oak. Medium bodied with perfectly integrated sweet tannins and low acidity levels. It is drinking very well and is a real pleasure. Fully mature. 94 points.
Flight 3:
1982, Chateau Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France.
Very dark purple color, almost black as ink. The nose is absolutely amazing, classical Pauillac in every sense of it, dark black currant fruit, crème de cassis, wet forest floor, mushrooms, pine needles, strong mints, almost like toothpaste or a visit to the dentist. Cederwood and toasty oak as well. Fullbodied and strong, muscular and really intense. Everything is kept in place with a firm tannic grip - and the aftertaste is long and distinguished. I have tasted this wine several times and it never stops to amaze me. Consistently between 96-97 points. 96 points.
1989, Chateau Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France (Joker).
Dark purple/black color with a slight amber hue. The nose is totally seductive, extremely powerful and concentrated and again very classical Pauillac. Loads of black currant fruit, dark cherries, crème de cassis, wet underbrush, tomato plants, top soil, pine forest, strong mints, pencil shavings, espresso roast, vanilla and burned oak. The taste is extremely concentrated with exceptional richness, density and purity. It is more full, warm, fat and creamier version of the LB 1982. Amazing effort and the long lasting aftertaste is absolutely magnificent. 97 points.
1982, Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France.
Dark garnet color with an amber/brown hue. The nose is very fat, textured and sweet with subtle aromas of mature black currants, herbs, Earl Grey Tea, dairy products, old leather, vanilla and spicy oak. Medium to full bodied with sweet tannins and low acidity. Nice silky mouthfeel and soothing aftertaste. Mature. 95 points.
1982, Chateau Pichon-Lonhueville-Comtesse-de-Lalande, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France.
Dark garnet/purple color with only small signs of age. The thunderous nose explodes out of the glasswith profound layers of juicy black fruit, black currants, blueberries, raspberries, dark chocolates, pralines, herbs de Provence, mints, leather, tobacco leaves, Cuban cigars, wet underbrush, pine forest, sweet vanilla, crème brulee, roasted coffee beans, cedarbox and toasty oak. The taste is full bodied and perfectly balanced. IMO it is the best Comtesse Lalande ever made - unrivaled and unsurpassed. I have consistently rated it between 98-100 points. In terms of maturity - it is just entering its perfect drinking window and will remain there for years to come. Simply divine drinking. 98 points.
Flight 4:
1982, Chateau Margaux, Margaux, Bordeaux, France.
Dark garnet color, brown hue. The nose is quite soft and feminine. Sweet aromas of red cherries, raspberries, vanilla, flowers and toasty oak. Medium bodied with some structure but overall it lacks fruit, depth and complexity and finished off a bit hollow and dull. Fully mature. When this wine was revealed to us - I was quite disappointed and IMO the bottle is not representative for Margaux 1982 - which I normally rate between 97-99 points. 92 points.
1982, Chateau Duhart-Milon, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France.
Dark ruby/garnet color with significant amber at the edge. The nose is quite floral and intense, lots of fruit, raspberries, red currants, violets, white flowers, cedarwood, ice tea, vanilla, pastries and toast. Medium to full bodied, soft fruit and low acidity. Eventhough it has a very feminine texture, it is still a wine of great complexity and depth. My guess was Chateau Margaux on this one. How wrong I was. The best Duhart I have ever had! 97 points.
1982, Chateau Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France.
Dark brilliant color, almost like ink. Thick, fat and viscous, no signs of ageing. The stunning nose offers up boatloads of dark fruit, black currants, raspberries, dark chocolates, espresso roast, wet forest floor, tomato plants, mint, tobacco leaves, leather, minerals, crushed rocks, fresh wet paint, vanilla, toasty oak. Extremely full bodied, fierce and multi layered, the kind of wine you just don't want to drink, but just sit with your nose in the glass forever. Fresh, lively and young. Amazing power and strength, yet extremely soft, elegant and silky texture. The purity and depth is striking with razor sharp focus and definition. Highly aromatic, sweetly perfumed and totally seductive. Hitting all cylinders, a giant in the making. I have tried this wine 5-6 times with a consistent perfect score. 100 points.
1982, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France.
Dark purple/garnet color, some amber at the edge. The exceptionally deep, young and lively nose offers up loads of dark mature fruit, black currants, crème de cassis, herbs, minerals, lead pencil shavings, graphite, roasted coffee beans, liquorice allsorts, aromatic pipe tobacco, vanilla, toasty oak. The taste is fullbodied and strong with a very distinct and profound personality. A study in depth, length and richness. Very dark, highly extracted, muliti layered and superbly concentrated. The tannin levels are high but wrapped up in loads of juicy fruitiness. At the age of 30 - it is one of the most impressive, youngest and lively wines I have ever tasted. I have tasted this wine a dozen times or more over the last 5-6 years with consistent notes of 99-100 points. I am convinced that it is a modern version of the immortal 1959! Buy all you can afford! 99 points.
Evening seating:
Flight 1:
1982, Chateau Talbot, St. Julien, Bordeaux, France.
Ruby/garnet color, significant amber at the edge. The nose is quite mature with sweet aromas of raspberries, red currants, cold coffee, Danish pastries, vanilla and toasty oak. A funny note of sweet chewing gum as well. Medium bodied and quite evolved on the taste. A bit hollow on the mid palate. Overall a nice wine, but it seems the tannins and acidity are slowly taking over - and it is begging to budge. Drink up. 91 points.
1982, Chateau Canon, St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France.
Dark garnet color, some amber at the rim. The nose is quite expressive and sweet. My guess would be right bank. It seems to be very merlot driven, notes of raspberry jam, dark strawberries and figs intermixed with some quite masculine notes like grilled meat, burned charcoal, smoke and green peppers. The taste is fullbodied and strong. The wine has a quite old fashioned and rustic personality in the making - which I like. 94 points.
1982, Chateau Sociando-Mallet, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, France.
Dark purple color, only little signs of age. The nose is quite strong and powerful. Notes of immature black currants, green peppers, tomato plants, wet concrete and dry spicy oak. Medium to fullbodied, but a bit angular and brawny. Green and tannic on the taste and lacks charm and elegance. It has its elements for sure, I acknowledge that, but it is just not my style of wine. 92 points.
Flight 2:
1982, Chateau Certan de May, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France.
Dark purple/ruby color with a slight amber at the edge. The nose is very expressive, young and lively. Notes of raspberry jam, red currants, crème de cassis, earth, minerals, grilled meat and vegetables, smoke, herbs, leather, prunes and toasty oak. Full bodied and strong, great focus and structure. Highly extracted, elegant and with a distinctive character. The jammy fruitiness is wrapped up by some pretty marked tannins and balanced acidity. The greatest Certan de May I have ever tasted. 97 points.
1982, Chateau Cheval Blanc, St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France.
Dark purple color with only little signs of age. Fat and oily texture. The nose is roaring from the glass - and you know for sure that this is Cheval Blanc if you have ever been lucky enough to try it before. Luckily I have several times - and this bottle didn't let me down. Notes of black currants, dark cherries, port-like, liquor, coffee beans, toffee, wet fur coat, forest floor, dairy products, green peppers, Asian spices and toasty oak. The taste is extremely powerful and sweet - with gobs of highly extrated fruit and perfect tannin levels. The texture and mouthfeel is massive and impetuous. Superb richness, depth and complexity. The long lasting aftertaste is smooth and totally decadent. 99 points.
1982, Chateau Conseillante, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France.
Dark ruby/garnet color with significant amber at the edge. The nose is somewhat perplex. Notes of dark currant fruit, pine needles and wet underbrush - that are somewhat overshadowed by a strange and undesirable damp stained/mouldy cabbage / dunghill smell. The taste is allright - but lacks fruitiness, structure and overall density. Indeed a disappointment when it was revealed that it was Conseillante. 88 points.
1982, Chateau L'evanglie, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France.
Dark garnet color, some amber at the rim. The nose seems to be a bit closed. Deep underlying strength and power. Notes of black currant fruit, mulberries, kirsch, figs, liqourise, minerals, iron, corrosion, iodine, pills and gauze. Fullbodied and strong - but somewhat disjointed and immature in terms of balance. Austere and harsh tannins, high acidity that completely hides the underlying fruit. It has an iron fist personality and needs more time. I was quite surprised when this wine was revealed, as I have had it several times before with a much more accessible and soft character and given it 5-6 points higher. 91 points.
Flight 3:
1982, Chateau La Mission Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, France.
Corked.
1982, Chateau La Tour Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, France.
Dark ruby/garnet color with a brown hue. The nose is extremely powerful, sexy and delicate. Loads of ripe dark fruit, black currants, grilled meats, tobacco, minerals, scorched earth, smoke, asphalt, dairy products, buttermilk and junket, toasted oak. Deeply layered. The nose is simply to die for. The taste is fullbodied and strong. The density, fatness and mineral richness is overwhelming. A stunning wine which I have consistently rated 99-100 point. 99 points.
1982, Chateau Haut-Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, France.
Dark garnet/ruby color with a slight amber at the edge. The nose is classic Haut Brion and gives it away immediately. Lovely aromas of black currants, red cherries, sweet pipe tobacco, herbs, ink, pencil shavings and loads of toast. Fullbodied and rich, very aromatic and perfumed with stunning complexity, elegance and purity. Soft tannins and low acidity levels. To me it has always been a totally delicious wine. 98 points.
1986, Chateau Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France. (Joker).
Unfortunately a flawed wine. Notes of brown sugar, mould, cabbage, banana and kitchen disposals. No rating.
Flight 4:
1982, Chateau Lafleur, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France.
Dark purple color with only small signs of age. The supernatural nose is rocketing out of the glass like a volcano. Fierce, strong and powerful with deep layers of black and red currant fruits, raspberries, blueberry marmalade, strawberries, gun powder, iron, wet top soil, crushed flints, dark chocolates, mints and toasty oak. The taste is full bodied, young and powerful and posses an extreme concentration. Opulence, elegance, density and striking richness are just a few of the superlatives I can add to this Titan of a wine. The mind blowing and hedonistic aftertaste lasts for several minutes. I was my second time to taste this showstopper - last time was in 2006 - and I feel really privileged. It is evolving at a snail's pace and will last for decades. 100 points.
1982, Chateau Trotanoy, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France.
Dark ruby/garnet color with significant signs of ageing at the rim. The stellar nose is extremely opulent, dense and thick. Very young, vibrant and lively with loads of sweet and dark jammy fruit, crème de cassis, black currants, red currants, cherry liqueur, kirsch, wild raspberries, wet underbrush, pine forest, grilled meat, pepper fruits, Asian spices, Belgian pralines, sweet English liqourice, nutmeg, vanilla and toasty oak. The taste is extremely concentrated, deep and dense. Multilayered and massive, exceptionally sweet, low tannin and acidity levels and perfectly balanced. Exotic, breathtaking, thrilling and superb in the making. Totally intoxicating and hedonistic aftertaste. When this wine was revealed to be Trotanoy - I was completely overwhelmed - as this stunning wine clearly was the biggest surprise of the day! I will to buy all I can get. 100 points.
1982, Chateau Le Gay, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France.
Dark and dense purple color, only little signs of ageing at the rim. The nose is very young, vibrant and sweet. Delicate aromas of mature black currant fruit, dark raspberries, wild strawberry jam and wet underbrush intermixed with notes of iron and clay, pine forest, fresh saw dust, sawmill, nuts, vanilla and burned oak. The taste is opulent and massive. Full bodied and strong, yet sweet, delicate and smooth. A very elegant and tasty offering. It will last for years to come in terms of development. 97 point.
1982, Chateau Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France.
Dark ruby/garnet color with some amber at the edge. The nose is quite young and fresh - yet you sense the years that has passed. Wonderful aromas of matur black currants, kirsch, red peppers, buttermilk and junket, wet top soil, tomato plants, toasted bread, earth, truffles and cedarbox. Fullbodied taste with great definition, purity and strength. Very classic, old fashioned and rustic in the making. My guess was VCC on this one - as it is so distinguished and pronounced in its character. I like it. 96 point.
Other wines of the day:
1999, Comtes de Champagne, Magnum, Champagne, France, 95 points.
NV, Jacques Selosse Exquise, Champagne, France, 96 points.
2003, Bouchard, Chevalier Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Bourgogne, France, 95 points.
2005, Domaine Leflaive, Pucelles, Pugliny-Montrachet, Bourgogne, 95 points.
2003, Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France, 97 points.
2001, Chateau Rieussec, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France, 94 points.
1900, Fonseca, Moscatel de Setubal, Setubal, Portugal, 98 points.
Bjørke __________________
member of Copenhagen Tasting Group
Last edited by Bjørke Kierkegaard : 05-25-2012 at 12:18 PM.
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